NV Pierre Gerbais Grains de Celles Champagne

Available from Little Thing Wine when we last checked. Sold from the shop’s own store; the price there is the one that counts.

Pierre Gerbais is a fourth generation domaine in the Aube, a region in southern Champagne that sits closer to Chablis than Épernay. The Aube—and within it the Côte des Bar—is decidedly cool at the moment. Long part of Burgundy, the Aube represents Champagne’s untapped potential. It’s a place where growers still own farmland and young winemakers can actually get started. At Pierre Gerbais, 20-or-30-something Aurélien Gerbais is organically tending old vine Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot blanc.